A Description of the Antiquities & Scenery of the Parish of North Knapdale, Argyleshire
Transcribed from the original 1830 publication by Archibald Currie, formerly Master of the Grammar School of Rothsay, Author of “Principles of Gaelic Grammar,” &c. Published by W. R. M’Phun, Trongate, Glasgow. Section headings below are editorial additions for navigation; the original is continuous prose.
Dedication
To the Inhabitants of the Parish of North Knapdale.
Gentlemen,
From the repeated marks of kindness and favour which I have uniformly experienced from many of you, I am encouraged to request your Patronage of the following Observations on the Antiquities of your native Parish, in the hope that by your friendship they may be rescued from oblivion. That these remarks may be agreeable to yourselves, and amusing to posterity, is the sincere wish of,
Gentlemen,
Your grateful and respectful Servant,
THE AUTHOR.
Ardnacaig, North Knapdale, 20th April, 1830.
Description, &c.
The Parish of North Knapdale
Knapdale, which signifies hill and dale, is bounded on the east by Lochfyne and the Crinan Canal; on the west by the Sound of Jura; on the north by Loch Crinan; and on the south by the Isthmus and Lochs of East and West Tarbert. Its length from north to south is twenty miles, and its greatest breadth fifteen miles.
The Parish of North Knapdale, some of the antiquities of which I intend to mention, is twelve miles long and eight broad, and is divided nearly in the middle by Loch Swen, an inlet from the Atlantic, which, after continuing its course for two or three miles, suddenly expands and separates into several branches, resembling the palm, thumb, and fingers of the hand, which divisions are called the Bays of Achanamara, Drutufin, Galuchoille, and Tigh-bheallich, respectively.
The division of the parish westward of Loch Swen, whose antiquities I shall first mention, is called Ross, a Celtic word, which signifies “a Peninsula.”
The Shielings and Watch Tower of Ross
Having lately had occasion to perambulate the western side of this parish, opposite to Jura, I came across rugged mountains and pathless ways to the farm of Carsaig, or “the Rocky Bay,” where I accidentally alighted on what are called in the ancient Celtic, Arildean, or in Scotch, “shielings.” Around these, the original inhabitants of the country formerly tended their flocks and herds, in solitude and in silence, far removed from the noise and bustle of the world. Here their wants were few, and their comforts many. Their fleecy flocks afforded food and raiment meet for them, with which they were content. I remarked with pleasure that the vallies were cultivated as extensively around their dwellings as the circumscribed fields of their native hills would permit, which afforded both Corn to nourish, and Barley to gladden the heart of man. Proceeding northward, I came to the farm of Ard-shineachdaig,* or “the Spowy Eminence,” where I was agreeably surprised to find the remains of “shielings” much more extensive than the former. Here were seen the ruins of houses amidst solitary mountains, which of old were the abodes of the pristine inhabitants of the country. One of these ruins, which most probably was the residence of the ancient proprietor of the farm, is sixty feet long by fifteen broad; divided into three departments, and commanding a most extensive view north and south, as far as the eye can reach. Near this are the vestige of another dwelling twenty feet long by twelve broad, evidently the abode of the servants. Contiguous to these are the traces of circular and oblong folds, to protect their flocks from the depredations of wolves and foxes, which were numerous in the country in early times. I am informed by Dr. Macarthur, a medical gentleman in the parish, that the last wolf seen in Argyleshire was killed in Glenorchy about seventy years ago. A circumstance which I consider very singular, is, that the tombs of the ancient possessors of this farm are seen around their dwellings; which are clearly distinguished by “the four grey stones of Ossian’s heroes.” I also noticed a seat cut out of a large stone, near the principal abode, whence the proprietor might see his flocks and herds extensively grazing around him. Upon inquiry from an aged individual of this district, he informed me that the ruins which I contemplated, were called Sean Bhaile Shoirle, or “The Old Town of Samuel.” I asked if he ever heard the sirname of this Samuel? He said it was Mac Laoisich, or the “Son of the Calf Keeper,” a native of Jura: hence I concluded that this is one of those sirnames which were assumed from the occupations of men in the infancy of society; which shows the antiquity of these ruins. Contiguous to these ancient abodes, the fields were cultivated as extensively as the hills on either side of the solitary vale, in which these ruins are, would permit, which afforded food both to the proprietor and to his flocks. On this delightful spot, the ancient inhabitants would enjoy, with other rural pleasures, the lark’s early song, inviting to labour, and the pleasing prospect of the setting sun gilding the Atlantic with his evening rays. The agreeable situation of this pristine dwelling particularly attracted my notice, both from its easy access to fuel, and other domestic comforts; which shows that the ancients were equally good judges of proper situations for their abodes as the moderns. Near these ruins, a gentleman who accompanied me the following day, showed me the upper stone of a Highland Bra, or quern, perforated in the middle, which was used in early times for grinding their corn. The stone is grey, and of a circular form, which the gentleman intends to preserve as an object of curiosity. Upon inquiry, I found that a person could grind a bull of dried corn into meal, with one of those querns in a day; and that in the island of Jura they were used till within these ten years, when they were superseded by meal mills on the modern construction. The use of the quern may have continued longer, were it not that the law of Scotland discouraged it. So far back as the reign of Alexander III. in the year 1284, it was enacted, “That no man shall presume to grind quhiet, maisloch, or rye, with hand mylnes, except he be compelled by storm, and be in necessity; yones quhilk should grind the samen. And, in this case, if a man grinds at hand mylnes, he shall gif the threttein measure, as multure: and gif any man contraveins this our prohibition, he shall tyne his hand mylnes perpetuallie.”
The site on which the present mansion-house of Ardnacaig is built, was formerly called Acha enoched na fairc, or “the Field of the Watch Tower.” This name is very descriptive of the situation; for, on the summit of a circular eminence, eighty feet high, lying about two hundred yards S. W. of the present dwelling-house, there are seen marks of the fallen ruins of a fortification, evidently intended to protect its inhabitants from the predatory incursions of the Danes, or other roving barbarians. The watch tower in question is circular, seventeen yards in diameter, and fifty-one in circumference, and the remains of the surrounding wall are sixteen feet in thickness. Within this fortified place, there are the vestiges of a house twenty feet long by twelve broad, probably intended for the residence of the principal guardians of the fort. At the eastern extremity of this vestige, there are yet seen the fallen ruins of a small circular inclosure, perhaps intended for the abode of those on sentry; and on the S. W. side of the dwelling-house, there is a small quadrangular plain, probably for the purpose of exercising the men in the use of the bow and arrow, or such other missile weapons as were used in these early times. From the summit of this circular eminence, there is an extensive view of the islands of Jura, Scarba, Seil, Mull, the Craignish Islands, and the north-west coast of Argyleshire. The whole of the area of this tower is covered with tansy, which annually spreads its fragrance on the gale. I am of opinion that this herb was planted there in order to mix its dried leaves and flowers with their favourite beverage of strong ale, instead of hops; for to this day I have seen the flowers of tansy mixed by many of the respectable inhabitants of North Knapdale with whisky, which forms it into a mild and agreeable bitter. I wish also to state, that the whole exterior of the fort has been planted with black thorn, to protect and strengthen the fortification. It is worthy of note, that I have not hitherto observed this species of thorn growing anywhere on this farm, excepting around this fort, which clearly proves that it has once been planted there by the hand of man, to serve for his protection and safety. I am informed by a person who lived more than forty years on this farm, that in his youth the walls of this tower were at least twelve feet high, though even then much dilapidated; and that when the present mansion-house of Ardnacaig was built, the stones of this watch tower were rolled down its steep side to raise the present structure. Inconsiderate mortals, why violate the noble structures of venerable antiquity! I am also informed, that on removing the stones on the outside of the fort, the empty shells of periwinkles were found, at least four inches in circumference; which is much larger than those now found on the shore. Having mentioned this circumstance to a gentleman now resident here, he said that the frequent cutting of the sea-weed, may be one reason for the diminution in the size of the wilks; and that on the western coast of Jura, where the sea-weed is not cut, that periwinkles as large as those here mentioned, are still to be found. But to return from this digression. These watch towers are very common, not only on the western shores of Argyleshire, but over all Scotland, and they are always placed in sight of each other, to give notice of the approach of the foe on the coast; for by raising the Cran-taraidh, or “fiery torch,” upon any one of them, the alarm was thus speedily communicated from tower to tower, to warn the country of the impending danger. Thus they served the same purpose as our modern telegraphic dispatches. When, therefore, one of these watch towers is described, an idea may be formed of the rest.
Having made these remarks on the watch tower, it may gratify curiosity to mention, that at the head of Sailean mor, or “the larger bay,” about half-a-mile north of this fort, there is a small level plain, on the west side of a little rivulet which flows into the bay. This spot was formerly used as a place of sepulture. Tradition relates that the first who were buried here were two fishermen from the island of Jura, who were lost with their boat on this shore, and that the spot continued afterwards to be used as a place of interment by the inhabitants of the few farms in this inaccessible part of North Knapdale. In this neglected spot, perhaps the mortal remains of youth and beauty lie, without a stone to mark their names, along with others, who, in their day, might have been, in their little sphere, useful to the community, are here forgotten and unknown. The probable reason for choosing this as a place of interment, was owing to the ruggedness of the path to Carn Chaonich, or “Kenneth’s Tomb,” three miles distant.
Though the respectable proprietors of the farms of Downie, Ardnacaig, and Carassig, resided from time immemorial on their respective properties, they never formed a road to the nearest parish church, which is at Tigh-bheallich, about three miles distance. From what this negligence of personal convenience and safety proceeded, is hard to determine. Perhaps it arose from the practice of running always upon rough and uneven ground, over which, from custom, they skipped with great agility, leaving the aged and the infirm to scramble over ditches, and to climb hills, in the direction which best suited their fancies.
Kenneth’s Tomb
I mentioned above, that Kenneth’s Tomb was the nearest burying place to the district which I am at present describing. This person was a Kenneth M’Lean, from the island of Mull, who about two hundred and forty years since, in the reign of James VI. of Scotland, landed on this coast with a number of his followers, to revenge a quarrel which he had with Macneil of Taynish, laird of Ross, in this parish. Having defeated Macneil and his adherents, he carried with him the spoils of his victory, which in these days consisted of cattle, to the Bay of Carassig, in order to be ferried to Mull. Here he was met by Macillecharnaig, of Oib, who remonstrated with him on his cruelty to Macneil. Kenneth replied, “This evening you will lose your head, when I shall enjoy the embraces of your fair spouse.” Graham, with much address and presence of mind, said to him, “Look at that beautiful ship, under full sail, coming down the Sound of Jura.” On this, M’Lean turned round to see the ship, when Graham, seizing the opportunity, thrust his dagger into Kenneth’s side, when he fell, and was there buried. Hence the origin of the present burying place in this part of the parish, which to this day is called Carn Chaonich, or “Kenneth’s Tomb,” from that circumstance.
Previous to the disjunction of South Knapdale, in 1734, from this parish, the minister resided at Cil, or “the place of interment,” where he had his Manse and Glebe; and there also is the oldest burying place in the parish; but before I describe this, it will be proper to say something of Eilean mor mhie o Charmaig, in its neighbourhood.
Eilean Mòr and St. Carmaig’s Island
Near Cil lies a groupe of small islands, the most considerable of which, is Eilean mor mhie o Charmaig. Carmaig was the ancient proprietor of this island. His whole family consisted of a grand-daughter, who used to amuse herself by angling on the shore, which is surrounded with currents, and frequented to this day by vast shoals of fish. It happened, on an occasion of this kind, that a bone, in place of a fish, came out with her line, which she unhooked and threw back into the sea.
* Perhaps Ardnaochdaig, “the Bare Eminence,” from ard, “high,” and naochd, “naked,“—i.e. “the Bare Eminence,” so called from a naked ridge of rocks on the eastern boundary of the farm.
Again and again it came out in this manner. Chagrined with disappointment, she carried it home, and put it into the fire. The whiteness of its ashes struck her fancy. She endeavoured to preserve them; but, burning her finger in the attempt, she instinctively thrust it into her mouth. By this means she became pregnant of the saint whose supernatural gifts were so long to survive himself. He founded Kit mhic o Charmaig, the first church of Knapdale; and after a life spent in acts of piety and devotion, was buried in his native island. His tomb, a little oblong building, elevated about three feet above the ground, and covered with flags, remains uninjured by time. The saint is said to resent, with the most summary vengeance, the least indignity offered to his monument. Near his tomb is a small chapel built by himself. It is arched over, and covered with flags. Within, in a recess of the wall, is a stone coffin in which the priests are said to have been deposited. The figure of a naked man is cut on its cover. The coffin also, for ages back, has served the saint as a treasury; and this, perhaps, might be the purpose for which it was originally intended. Till of late not a stranger set foot on the island, who did not conciliate his favour by dropping a small coin into it between its cover and side. Upon an eminence, not far off, is a pedestal with a cross, and the figure of a naked man; and near to the cross is a cave, possessing the wonderful power of causing sterility in every person who dares to enter it. This magic island, if we may believe the legendary story of the saint, possessed many singular qualities. Nothing could be stolen from it that did not of itself return. The master of a vessel, conceiving a liking to the cross, carried it along with him; but being overtaken by a storm at the Mull of Kintyre, was obliged to throw it overboard; when it floated back to a creek of the island, called, from that circumstance, Posmad to this day. Miracles were performed by the saint for many ages after his death.
The cave preserved its reputation till of late; and were it not for the following untoward circumstance, would have remained an object of terror to this day. A pair, more solicitous of gratifying their passions than promoting the political interest of their country, went into it with a view to bring its influence to the test of experiment. They were disappointed. The female became pregnant, and the whole neighbourhood sceptics. Though the miraculous excellencies of this island have now ceased, they are amply compensated to the proprietor by a natural one. Not a spot in the Highlands is fitted to produce beef or mutton of a superior quality.
The Ancient Proprietors
At this stage of our description, it may be proper to make a few observations on the manners of the ancient proprietors of the country. Of old, the chieftain was not so much considered the master as the father of his numerous clan. Every individual of his followers loved him with a degree of enthusiasm which made them cheerfully undergo any fatigue or danger. Upon the other hand, it was his interest and chief glory to requite such animated friendship to the utmost of his power. The rents paid him were cheerfully consumed in feasts given at the habitations of his tenants. What he was to spend, and the time of his residence at each village, was known and provided for accordingly. The men who provided these entertainments partook of them; they all lived friends together; and the departure of the chief and his retinue never failed to occasion regret. In more polished times, the cattle and corn consumed at these feasts of hospitality, were ordered up to the landlord’s habitation. What was friendship at first, became very oppressive in modern times. Till very lately, the laird of Achamobresc had a right to carry off the best cow he could find upon several properties in this parish, at each Martinmas, by way of mart. But these primitive manners have now ceased, and with them the attachment of the inhabitants to their native soil. This may be accounted for by the alienation of most of the lands in this and the neighbouring parishes from their former proprietors to gentlemen unacquainted with the manners of the people. In ancient times, as I have mentioned, the landlords associated in a friendly way with their tenants; were well acquainted with their manners and customs; and showed them various marks of kindness and favour. Such humanity attached the tenant to his landlord, and thus their kindness became reciprocal. Whereas, in the present day, the proprietors are absent from their estates the greater part of the year, far distant from the personal intercourse of their people, with whose wants they are necessarily unacquainted: hence their mutual good offices must entirely cease. No wonder, therefore, if many of the old inhabitants are compelled to leave their native soil, where they are thus neglected and unknown, and endeavour, however reluctantly, to transport themselves and their families to the shores of America or of Canada, where, by honest industry, they may provide for their offspring, and end their days in comparative ease and peace. Many respectable tenants and useful artisans have already left us, and, it is to be feared, the desertion is only in its commencement. If the tide of emigration thus continues to flow, it may ere long depopulate our country, and leave us in the state of the ancient inhabitants, whose manners I have here been describing.
The Chapel at Cil and the Road to Tigh-bheallich
At Cil, there are the ruins of a Catholic chapel, whose walls, though long unroofed, are still standing. The area of this chapel is now used as a place of sepulture; in the east corner of which is a tombstone of great antiquity. It belongs to the Macneils of Taynish, the ancient proprietors of North Knapdale. The epitaph on the tombstone is cut in relief, partly in the Celtic language, and partly in Latin, thus:—“Iian mac Thoircle ‘ic Thormailt ‘ic Neil. iri. iri. Fato hic 1099:“—that is, “John, the son of Toircle, the son of Norman, the son of Neil, alas! alas! by fate laid here, 1099.” Perhaps this is among the oldest monuments in Scotland. It is still legible, and, on that account, well deserves the inspection of every traveller of taste and curiosity.
The walk from Cil to Tigh-bhi is easy and agreeable, but the scenery is not much diversified. The fields on the east side of the road, and likewise every accessible spot on the steep hills on the west, are carefully cultivated, which evince the industry of the tenants. With the exception of a few sycamore or plane trees, planted around the farm-houses, the hills along this tract are quite denuded of woods, and bare of shelter, extending for six miles in uniform nakedness. It would greatly beautify the scene were clumps of trees planted here and there on these hills; they would both gratify the eye, and in time remunerate the proprietor.
At Cois an Drochaid, or “the path of the bridge,” is shown an extraordinary leap performed by Lair mhic Aincil, or “the stranger’s mare,” who was here encompassed by his foes. Spurring his horse, the animal leaped at least twenty-two feet over the heads of the surrounding enemy, and in this manner saved his rider. Macaneol fled from this spot for Castle Swen, a distance of eighteen miles, with the speed which the fleetest courser could carry him, and arrived there before his pursuers, who crossed Lochswen in a boat, and made every possible haste to exclude him from the Castle, which he however entered before his foes came forward. From his being called Macaneol, or “the son of the stranger,” he was probably a Dane, who committed acts of violence on his neighbours, for which reason he was thus circumvented.
In the course of my inquiries respecting the antiquities of this parish, Sergeant Archibald Campbell, at Turbiskil, showed me a small circular piece of lead, found by one of his children in a field near his dwelling-house. It is of the size of our modern sixpences, but much thicker. From its being marked above with the figure S, and beneath with the year 1709, it may have then passed in this parish instead of the richer metals; in which case, its value would be eight-twelfths of a penny, or three farthings of our present money. It is well known that the current money of the nation was at that period scarce in this country; hence the necessity of such pieces, which were then received in the neighbourhood as tokens of their respective values.
On this tract is Duntuarich, or “Murdoch’s Fort,” upon a little eminence, well fortified with ditch and ramparts, surrounding the rock to the sea, not easily accessible, with a large house on the top of the rock, all built of stone without mortar, believed to have been formerly the fice in the parish, and once the castle of the Macneils of Taynish, the supposed first occupiers of this part of the country.
At Tigh-bheallich, an isthmus is formed by a beautiful bay on the east, and Carasaig Bay on the west. The former an inlet from Castle Swen, fringed with woods and delightful scenery; the latter a branch from Jura Sound. The hill immediately south of the Hart Inn of Tigh-bheallich, is surrounded with the remains of an ancient fortification, which embraced the top of the hill, with the vestiges of a house and visible lines of circumvallation, as a defence to the fortification, which is called Dun a bheallich, or “the Fort of the Pass.” This ancient fortress is a perfect square of seventy-four feet, surrounded with a wall twelve feet thick. At its northern side are the traces of a circular house, sixteen yards in diameter, and twenty-one in circumference. The area of the adjoining square is as smooth and as level as a bowling-green, and very convenient for exercising men in such military tactics as were then in use. This is the prettiest watch tower I have yet seen, and the view from its summit will fully compensate the trouble of ascending the steep eminence on which it is situated.
From the summit of Duntaynish, a conical hill, a little south of Tigh-bheallich, and almost in the centre of the parish, there is an extensive view of the surrounding country. To the south is seen Taynish,** the seat of Mr. Campbell of Ross, situated on the extremity of a peninsula, extensively encompassed with plantations and natural woods, in which birch, the hardy native of the north, predominates. On the top of Duntaynish, whose steep sides are covered with birch, there are the vestiges of one of those watch towers, already described. This fort is likewise circular, having the traces of a house twenty-one feet long by twelve broad, in the centre, and the whole encompassed with a profusion of black aloe-thorn, to serve for safety and defence. The south-west side of this eminence, with the summit of the adjoining hill, appear to have been formerly extensively cultivated, and the traces of a few cottages are still seen on this plain. These fields bear evident marks of being of old under tillage, to the extent of six or eight acres; and were they now cultivated, I am convinced, from the depth and richness of the soil, that they would yield luxuriant crops.
In this parish are many fortified eminences, larger than those I have described. These strong-holds of the early, but uncivilised inhabitants of the country, are rude in construction, and narrow in extent. They were built without lime or mortar of any kind. Stones of enormous weight were dragged from a distance, and up hill, and these stones were placed lengthways, towards the centre of the wall. Upon the whole, those wretched retreats of barbarity and violence, afford a striking proof of the strength and perseverance of the inhabitants at that early period, but none of their taste or genius; and, when viewed with a philosophic eye, they must excite, by contrast, the most pleasing sensations in the breast of the beholder: for they impress strongly on the mind the violence and wretchedness of the times in which they were constructed; and must endear to the present race that security and happiness which they enjoy in a period more enlightened, and under a government better regulated, when each can “sit under his own vine and fig tree, without any to make him afraid.”
At Tigh-bheallich there is a fine commodious church, in which the minister of the parish preaches every alternate Sabbath, both summer and winter. It is pleasing to see how neatly the parishioners, both male and female, dress when they come to church. In this respect, without imitating Low Country fashions, they now excel them in what regards personal comfort and neatness. From the encouragement which the clergyman gives to teachers of church music, the young people can now accompany the precentor in a variety of sacred tunes; which, from his fine and melodious voice, he does much justice. In their attention to sacred music, the youth are much to be commended; for it is truly laudable to find them able to unite in the praises of their Maker in a devout and becoming manner.
From Tigh-bheallich the highway leads towards Beulanach, six miles distant. Along this tract, the traveller will be highly delighted with the beautiful scenery of woods on both sides of an inlet of the sea, by which for three miles the road leads. The walk at intervals is finely diversified with corn fields, and small verdant plains, by the side of purling streams of clear water, whose banks, in summer, the songsters of the groves soothe with their melody. Within two miles of Beulanach the road winds circuitously at the foot of various hills, some of which are cultivated by the Highland spade, ridge above ridge, to their very summits. Here, encompassed by hills of moderate elevation, there is seen by the road side a gently rising eminence, on the top of which two stone pillars are erected, probably to mark the tombs of some ancient heroes, who might have there fallen in defence of their country. This verdant level plain is a perfect circle, twenty yards in diameter; at the north and south ends of which one of these stone pillars is erected. Around the circumference of the circle, large stones are laid, by which the area is enclosed. From these circumstances I am led to think that this is one of these Druidical circles within which the priests of that order annually met on the first of May, to celebrate the approach of the warm season, and to prepare their sacred fire from the concentrated heat of the sun’s rays. On the night previous to these annual meetings, all the fires in the district were extinguished, and such of the people as were unblamable in conduct received some of the sacred fire from the superintending Druid; but it was refused to immoral characters. Though this custom ceased with the Druidical order, yet, to this day, should fire be asked from a neighbour on the morning of the first of May, the favour would not only be refused by many, but the applicants would be viewed with jealousy, and even suspected of witchcraft. So long does superstition retain its power over the unenlightened mind! Below the path, there is a beautiful fresh water lake, about a mile and a half long, and a quarter of a mile broad, called Loch-coillebar, or “the Lake of the Woods,” abounding in fine trout, where those fond of angling often find much profitable amusement. In this lake, expert fishers have frequently caught red muir trout weighing from one to four pounds each; and, what is very singular, the fish take better by moonlight than by day. About three years since, a person caught by moonlight the extraordinary number of ninety-nine fine trout before morning. The borders of this lake are edged with alder and hazel, the latter of which, in harvest, produces abundance of fine nuts. These, in plentiful seasons, are gathered by poor persons, which they sell, and thus honestly add to the means of their subsistence. At the southern extremity of the lake, there is a meal mill, of old reckoned one of the comforts of Knapdale, agreeably to the following saying:—
“Tri srold Chnapdalil, Carrish Laochd Chrinan, Frith ghlinn a Bhacain, Is muillean dubh Choillehar.”
i.e. “The fish cruives of Loch Crinan; the deer park of Bacan’s Glen; and the dusty meal mill of Coillehar.”
It was in this mill that Lady Elizabeth Campbell, daughter of the second Earl of Argyle, and wife to Maclean of Duart in Mull, first found shelter after she was left by her husband on a rock in the sea, near that island in 1490. Her cries were heard by some Knapdale fishermen, accidentally passing at the time, who rescued her from her perilous situation, carried her thither, treated her kindly, and afterwards safely delivered her to the earl her father, at Inveraray, who, as a reward for their praise-worthy action, bestowed the mill and its privileges on them and their posterity for many ages thereafter.
At Beulanach there is one of the established schools of the parish, taught by Mr. Turner with great success; in which the children, at the usual annual examinations, have acquitted themselves so well in their respective studies of Latin, arithmetic, English, and Gaelic, as to do much honour to the care and fidelity of their teacher. It is much to be regretted that such a useful class of men as the parochial schoolmasters of Scotland are in many instances still much neglected; particularly in such parishes as this, where the legal salary is divided, and where the teachers pay rent both for their schools and dwelling-houses. In such cases, where the salary is only about £17 sterling, yearly, a deduction therefrom of nearly £5 annually of rent, much diminishes the penurious allowance granted them by law. I am convinced, were the state of the schoolmasters in this parish properly represented to the liberal and enlightened proprietors of the soil, that they would insist that no rent should be in future exacted from persons whose services are so valuable to the community where they reside.
Here also is an extensive cloth shop, kept by Mr. M’Lean, where young people may not only be furnished with the ornamental, but also with all the varieties of useful and necessary dressings on reasonable terms.
About a mile north of Beulanach, at Kilmalumaig, there is a conical earthen mound, thirty feet high, called Dun Donuil, or “Donald’s eminence,” whence the
** From taobh Inuis, “beside an Island.”
great chieftain, Lord Macdonald of Kintyre and of the Isles, formerly gave laws to his vassals, and settled their differences in this part of his jurisdiction. Upon one of these occasions, he gave a right to Mackay of Kilmahumaig to that farm, in the following concise words:—
“Mise Donuil nan Donuil, Am shuidh air Dùn Donuil, Toirt coir do mhac-aigh air Kilmahumaig, ‘O’n dingh gus a maireack, ‘S gu la bhrath mar sin.”
i.e. “I, Donald, Chief of the Macdonalds, sitting on Donald’s Eminence, give here a right to Mackay to Kilmahumaig, from this day till to-morrow, and on for ever.”
Many families in the Highlands held their property in consequence of grants from these lords, who conveyed them in short and strong charters, similar to the above.
Near a mile from Dundonald, at the northern extremity of the parish, is Fernfield Cottage, the residence of Mrs. Captain Maclachlan of Craigentairbh. This cottage is built close to the sea, almost on the edge of a precipitous rock, at least 100 feet above the watery element below. From its windows there is one of the finest views imaginable. Underneath is Crinan harbour, an excellent and safe retreat for sea-beaten ships, where they often find a commodious asylum from storms. To the west is the whirlpool of Coire bhreceain, betwixt the north end of Jura and Scarba, with the various surrounding islands. To the north is seen Duntroon Castle, the seat of Mr Malcolm of Poltalloch, environed with woods; and to the east, Experiment, and the extensive meadows of Crinan, where flocks and herds are seen to roam. Here also is a neat garden, producing such a variety of the beautiful and the useful, as both pleases the eye, and administers to the comfort of man. A more delightful summer scene than this can scarcely be imagined. The setting sun gilding the western sea with his evening beams, the screaming of the birds, delightful from the fragrant birches on the left, and the beautiful basin before mentioned, with vessels and boats plying upon it with cheerful industry; all these conspire to soothe and please the mind of the beholder. Standing on this eminence, one contemplates with pleasure, the variety of islands, rocks, and hills before him, and is almost bewildered in the view. Seated in one of the rooms of this comfortable cottage, amidst a variety of useful and instructive books, and surrounded with the grand scenery before mentioned, with the sprightly and agreeable conversation of its cheerful and accomplished inhabitants—these are such refined pleasures as even philosophers would wish to enjoy.
At the western extremity of the Crinan Canal is Crinan Inn, kept by Mrs. Ker, with much cleanliness and neatness. Here travellers can be accommodated with beds, and every other convenience, in a superior style of comfort. This inn, with great propriety, may be recommended to strangers, where they will meet with civility and kind attention.
Castle Swen and the Danes
Having finished my remarks on the western side of the parish, I shall now retrace my steps southward to Castle Swen, at its eastern extremity.
The Danes formerly much infested this country, according to Buchanan, book 6th of his History. Sueño, King of Denmark, came to Scotland anno 994, with a numerous army, who, it is probable, then built a strong fort on the southern extremity of this parish, called from his name Castle Swen. This Castle is built on a rock close to the sea, and commands a very extensive prospect of the surrounding country. It is a strong and large fort, thirty feet high, and nearly a square of seventy feet; a considerable part of the western wall has fallen down into the sea, where it remains entire, though beat upon by the waves for many years, which shows the superior state of masonry in these early times. According to tradition, it was garrisoned by six thousand men, who greatly distressed the country and the neighbouring islands of Isla, Jura, Mull, &c. with their predatory excursions. At the battle of the Largs, however, which was fought on the first day of August, 1263, the Danes were totally defeated by Alexander III. of Scotland, the result of which, the Danes lost 10,000 men, and the Scots 5000. After this memorable event, the Danes surrendered the whole of the western islands, and never afterwards got any footing in Scotland. Buchanan in his History, book 7th, says, “At last after many discussions, the Scots retained possession of the western islands, for which they engaged to pay the Danes four thousand silver marks at the time, and a hundred marks annually thereafter; and besides, that Margaret the daughter of Alexander, then a few years old, should be given, when of age, in marriage to Hangon the son of Magnus.” Sometime after the expulsion of the Danes from the western isles of Scotland, it is not improbable that this parish was possessed by the Macdonalds of Kintyre, when a party of them occupied Castle Swen. The late Dr. Smith of Campbelton, in the statistical account of that parish, says that “the Macdonalds continued their exactions, till at length in 1536, the lordship of Kintyre, then in the possession of Sir James Macdonald, was granted to the family of Argyle, who, after a severe struggle, at last succeeded in bringing the Macdonalds to order.” About that period, it is said that the men of Glassry parish, carried a piece of brass ordnance from the Castle of Argyle at Inverary, ironically called the gunna cam, “or crooked gun,” from its straightness, to assist in expelling the Macdonalds from Castle Swen. This piece of ordnance is perhaps twelve feet long, and of great weight. Tradition says, that the Glassry men carried the gun to a steep pass, on the hill of Dunrostan, called from that circumstance, Beallach a Ghunna, or “the gun’s pass,” over which they were unable to bring it; upon which the Knapdale men, by strenuous exertion, carried it over the steep and difficult path, and made the piece bear on the Castle, by means of which, it is not unlikely, the Macdonalds were expelled. I have not heard that the Knapdale men, even then, boasted of this as an instance of their superior strength, far less would they now, for they have long since learned to prefer mental acquirements to personal prowess.
About twenty years ago, a tenant in digging the area of this castle for the purpose of tillage, dug up various small coins which he afterwards sold to an itinerant pedlar. Fortunately, however, John Campbell, Esq. at Ardnacaig, who is a great antiquarian, and fond of preserving ancient coins, procured one of them, in whose possession it now is. It is a small brass coin, considerably less than a farthing, having on one side a crown, beneath which are the letters “C. II. R.,” and round the edge “Car. D. G. Scot. Ang. Hib.” i.e. “Carolus Dei gratia Scotorum Angliæ et Hiberniæ.” That is, “Charles II. by the grace of God, King of Scotland, England, and Ireland.” On the reverse of the coin there is a Scotch thistle, surrounded with the motto, nemo me impune lacessit, or “none shall touch me with impunity.” Charles the Second began his inglorious reign in 1660, hence the age of the coin will be about 170 years.
In latter times an additional tower was built to this Castle, on its north-east side, by Macmillan of Knap, which is much more modern than the rest of the building. It is probable that he and his descendants occupied the Castle for several ages thereafter, by whom the coins already mentioned might have been left there.
The watch towers so frequently mentioned, were probably erected betwixt the years 994 and 1263, to observe the motions of the Danes, and to inform the inhabitants where they were to assemble to defend themselves and their country against their plundering devastations. Some farms in the parish still retain the Danish names then given them, such as Scotnish, Turbiskil, Dana, &c. The names of most of the western islands are Danish, such as Isla, Jura, Scarba, Lunga, and all others ending in a, which of itself shews that they were at one period under Danish control. What these names signify, it is impossible to trace, but they are left behind to prove, along with the rude forts on the hills, that the adventurous Danes once occupied some parts of this country.
Leaving Castle Swen,*** the road leads along the shore towards Kilmichael Inverlussay. In this tract the traveller passes for two or three miles through fine natural woods, chiefly of alder, birch, hazel, and ash, which skirt the road on either side, to Ashfield, so named from the profusion of ash which grows upon it. On the summit of Cruach Lusach, on this farm, is Tom seilg mhic Dhonuil bhallich, or “the hunting eminence of spotted M’Donald,” which is three thousand feet above the level of the sea, and has a view of a forest, belonging to the bishops of Sodor and Man.
Lame Hugh of Cruach Lusach
Eobhan Bacach, or Lame Hugh, also resided, in the days of yore, on Cruach Lusach, and made himself formidable to his enemies by his bravery. The chase and the care of his flocks constituted his amusement; and he had one day to encounter a wolf that came to devour them. In the conflict with this ravenous animal, he was deprived of the pan of his knee, by which loss he ever after was lame. Having in this encounter wound his shepherd’s plaid about his right arm, he thrust it with his drawn sword into the wolf’s throat, and thus killed him. In Hugh’s time most of the lands in the parish belonged to the Earl of Argyle, who on one occasion was obliged to carry off some of his vassals’ cattle for non-payment of rents, and among these, unknown to him, a white cow belonging to a poor widow in the place. She having represented her loss to Hugh, he followed Argyle with his quiver full of arrows, and coming up to him on the east side of Lochan Fada, or “the Long Lake,” he upbraided him for his cruelty to the widow, and ordered him on his peril to leave her cow, upon which Argyle asked him, what could he do were he not so inclined, “Do,” says lame Hugh, “I can easily kill you just now with one of my unerring arrows, should you not comply; and to show you that I can do so, I will this moment deprive you of the cockade in your cap by one of them.” So saying, he let fly an arrow from his bow, and carrying away the feather from the Earl’s bonnet, as he said. Upon this Argyle ordered his own attendants to take his aim at Hugh, which he did, but failed in his mark. After this encounter, Argyle offered a reward for Hugh’s head, when he was shortly after shamefully betrayed by his own brother, and carried prisoner to Inverary, where the traitor demanded the promised reward. The Earl said it would be given him, but first ordered the gold offered as the reward to be melted, and then poured down the throat of the betrayer, thus punishing him as he so justly merited. Hugh lived in peace many years after this transaction, and the stone chair on which he generally sat, is still shown on the hill of Cruach Lusach, as an object of curiosity. When near his end, he ordered that he should be buried at Cil, and his grave covered with a large flag, having a round aperture in the end, through which he might see his beloved Cruach Lusach, which was accordingly done. This shows that poor Hugh’s knowledge of futurity was nearly allied to that of those ancient heroes, who desired their arms to be interred with them, that they might use them in the next world.
Cruach Lusach was likewise the occasional residence of a person called Cailleach-bhear, who in her displeasure raised storms, and formed water-lakes. A narrow track or path along a steep rock, on the top of this mountain, is called “Bealach na h-aon Bho,” or “the tract of the single cow,” formed by Cailleach-bhear, by which she led her cow to pasture. It would appear this old woman was an ambulatory personage, travelling from parish to parish in the Highlands, to which she confined her motions. In the statistical account of the parish of Strachur, she is thus described by Dr. Stewart.
“The allegorical meaning of this lady is very obvious. Be’ir is the Gaelic for a thunderbolt; in the oblique cases, it is pronounced Ve’ir; as Bein-ve’ir, the name of a very high mountain in the parish of Appin, which signifies the mountain of thunder. Every thing said of Cailleach-bhear, literally applies to the effects of thunder, which is doubly awful in the neighbourhood of high mountains; nor is it surprising that it should be so feared and superstitiously dreaded in ages of ignorance. The residence of Cailleach-bhear, was said to be on the highest mountains; that she could step with ease, and in a moment, from one district to another; when offended, that she caused a flood to come from the mountains, which destroyed the corns, and laid the low grounds under water; that one of these floods was the origin of Lochow, in Lorn, of Locheck, in Cowal, and of many other Lakes; that the people paid her a superstitious veneration, and were under dreadful apprehensions of her anger.”
Her ladyship is also noticed by Dr. M’Intyre, in his statistical account of Glenorchy, of whom he says, “On the summit of Cruachan, was that fatal spring, from which, according to the tradition of our fathers, issued forth the beautiful and extensive Lake of Aw. Bera the aged, dwelt in the cave of the rock; she was the daughter of Grianan the sage; long was the line of her fathers, and she was the last of her race. Large and fertile were her possessions; her’s the beautiful vales below, and her’s the cattle which roamed on the hills around. To Bera was committed the charge of that awful spring, which, by the appointment of fate, was to prove so fatal to the inheritance of her fathers, and to her fathers’ race. Before the sun should withdraw his beams, she was to cover the spring with a stone, on which sacred and mysterious characters were impressed. One night, this she forgot by the fair Bera. Overcome with the heat and chace of the day, she was seized with sleep before the usual time of rest. The confined waters of the mountains burst forth into the plain below, and covered that large expanse, now known by the name of the Lake of Aw. The third morning Bera awaked from her sleep; she went to remove the stone from the spring; but, behold, no stone was there. She looked to the inheritance of her tribe; she shrieked! The mountain shook from its base! Her spirit retired to the ghosts of her fathers, in their light and airy halls.”—Ossian.
So much in regard to Cailleach-vear.
Inverlussay
At Inverlussay an agreeable scene presents itself, before describing which, it will be necessary to premise, that previous to the year 1734, the ministers of the parish whose antiquities I have been describing, resided at Cil, or the place of interment, where they had the manse and glebe. At that period, a large section of the parish was erected into the separate and adjoining one of South Knapdale. Upon this, an exchange of the manse and glebe at Cil, was made with Sir James Campbell of Achanambresc, the then proprietor, for Acha nan Caorach, and about half an acre of land for a garden, at Inverlussay, where the manse and offices now are. My reason for mentioning this circumstance is, to contrast the present state of the minister’s garden with what it was in 1734. At that time it was part of an open field used for the common purposes of agriculture, bounded on the south by a rapid mountain stream. In this state it continued till it was enclosed and planted in 1740, with some apple and pear trees by Mr. Archibald Campbell, then minister of the parish. Thus it continued for near a century, producing, with the exception of a few pears and apples, only some grass for the clergyman’s cow, and a few vegetables for the family. In this state I saw it in 1814, when it brought to my recollection the description of the garden of the sluggard, in the book of Proverbs. My avocations did not permit my visiting this quarter till the summer of 1819, when I was delighted to see the taste displayed by the present incumbent, the Rev. Mr. Colin Campbell, in improving this once neglected spot. Instead of rank grass and thistles, I saw it neatly divided into various portions, producing roses and flowers, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, plums, and the various kinds of pears and apples, with every other delicacy of the season, which could administer pleasure to man. Here the walk was so dry and so neatly gravelled, that one can walk and meditate on the beauties of nature for hours, with pleasure and with profit. On the south side of the garden, there is also a foot-path cut along the margin of the flowing stream which I mentioned, where one may meditate under the waving shade of various trees, which, in summer, give out a delicious coolness. A little above this shadowy path, there is a fine cascade, where, by the force of the stream, in times of floods, it has, in the course of ages, formed a deep glen out of the solid rock. This chasm is surrounded with trees on either side, whose branches extend over it, thus producing a dark and sombre shade, which renders the spot extremely delightful and romantic.
I mention these things solely to show the good effect which this praise-worthy example has already had on the neighbours. Many of them have commenced not only to cultivate and improve their gardens, but they have also begun to plant them with useful vegetables, and to adorn them with gooseberry and other fruit-bearing bushes. Such has been the pleasure in stating, that the schoolmaster has with much propriety followed the good example shown him, by planting his little garden with fruit-trees, and by adorning it with roses, and with flowers, which are not only agreeable to the sight, but also raise pleasant emotions in the mind. It will excite surprise, when I mention, that Mr. Alexander Stewart, the present parochial schoolmaster of this parish, and Mr. John M’Kay, teacher in Rothsay, are the first teachers in
*** I am happy to find that my conjecture respecting the possession of Castle Swen, by the Macdonalds of the Isles, is correct. Happening to look at Buchanan’s History of Scotland, since writing the above, I find it stated, Book 12, that in the reign of James III., anno 1476, an Act of the Estates passed against John, Lord of the Isles, for ravages widely committed by him on the maritime coasts of the continent, in consequence of which, the provinces of Ross, Kintyre, and Knapdale, which he had occupied by force, were taken from him, but allowed to retain the lordship of the Isles.
Scotland who ever taught the grammar of their native language to Highland youth. This they did in winter, 1829, with great success, to a class of boys who were studying English grammar at the same time. Mr. Stewart says, that when they were informed that such words as were nouns, pronouns, adjectives, or verbs, in Gaelic, were so in English, that they rejoiced, and applied to the study of both languages with redoubled ardour. The example of these gentlemen, therefore, deserves to be imitated by every teacher who wishes to benefit his pupils, by rendering the path which leads to knowledge easy and agreeable.
Knapdale being a peninsula, bounded by Lochfyne on the east, and indented by various inlets of the Atlantic on the west, is a healthy climate, situated upon a dry soil, and blest with many pure springs of water; its vales are sheltered from the stormy winds by the various surrounding hills; they thus enjoy a happy exemption from those diseases which affect marshy districts. In this parish there are various instances of longevity. There are in it several aged persons so vigorous, as to be able still to follow their respective employments. Last new-year’s-day, I conversed at Tigh-bheallich, with Isabel Smith, aged 105, in the full possession of her mental faculties, who is still so active and lively, that she relished the amusements of the young people, then assembled at their usual annual festivities; and even joined in a Highland reel, much to the pleasure of the company. Her brother, Duncan Smith, is about 85 years old, and till last spring tilled his quarter land with the Highland spade. He is still active, and able to engage in his usual rural occupations. John M’Arthur, another aged person, was present on the green where the youth were at their ball and shinty. He is about 80, and every lawful day is employed at his usual occupations of sowing and fishing, and has attended at fifty-four annual exhibitions of this nature, on the same plain. His memory is still so good, that he sings several Ossianic tales, which he learned in his youth, by hearing them rehearsed by old men, as their winter evening’s recreations.
Downie, on the north-west shore of this parish, may be called classic ground, from the residence of Thomas Campbell, Esq., author of the Pleasures of Hope, who lived there in his early days, as tutor to the family of Robert Campbell, Esq. In this remote and inaccessible situation, it is said he first thought of his Pleasures of Hope. If retirement and solitude are favourable to the muse, Mr. Campbell enjoyed these there in their fullest extent. On one side are seen rugged and steep hills, and on the other, an extensive view of various islands, lying betwixt him and the Atlantic Ocean. These are some of the objects which nature here presented to his view.
The laird of Downie himself was no contemptible man who was acquainted with him, “a good classic and historian, and pretty well acquainted with the biography of British authors.”
The Rev. Mr. Duncan Campbell, who was minister of this parish about the year 1680, was a fine Gaelic poet. He was one of the members of the church of Argyle who translated the psalms into Gaelic verse; and the eighteenth psalm is particularly instanced as having been versified by him.
On Driunnnacrieig, or “the rocky eminence” at Inverlussay, about a quarter of a mile north-west of the present church, there are seen the decayed ruins of a Catholic chapel encompassed with the burying grounds, and the tombs of the old inhabitants of the district. A little beneath these, is Tobar ant-sagairt, or “the priest’s well,” a spring of fine water, which now affords drink to the grazing flocks of the hill. From this ancient place of sepulture, many of the tomb-stones have been removed to the present church-yard; on some of which are inscriptions, now illegible. One of these records, that the Rev. Mr. Duncan Campbell, already mentioned as the poetical versifier of some of the Gaelic psalms, died in the 105th year of his age.
A few yards south of the chapel, are seen the ruins of the priest’s dwelling-house, thirty feet long by twenty broad. In a large stone, or rather rock, which once constituted part of the wall of this house, are cut two round hollow cavities. One of these is on the outside of the rock, circular, and the other is on the inside of the stone, of an oblong form. These cavities in the rock, were most probably the fonts which contained the consecrated water.
On a field called Dubh Achadh, or “the black field,” a little south of the church of Inverlussay, Sir James Campbell of Achanambresc, about the beginning of last century, was wont to hold courts of justice twice in the year; namely, at Whitsunday and Martinmas, to settle the differences of his tenants in the parish. Here they assembled, from Crinan harbour on the north, to the point of Knap on the south, where each person paid a penny to the law officers, in name of court dues, whether he had a law-suit or not. Each of these meetings continued a week, or from Monday till Saturday, when they separated. The family of the Macillebhearnaig’s of Oib Graham, were the legal trumpeters, who called the people to these assemblies, and the trumpet used on these occasions was presented by Duncan Macillebhearnaig, the last laird of Oib Graham, to John Campbell, Esq. at Ardnacaig, who retains it to this day.
At this part of our description, it will be amusing to mention the fine imposed by the kirk session of this parish about the year 1654, on the laird of Oib Graham, for delinquency. It was to erect a stone bridge, over the rivulet of Achanamara, a little west of the Catholic chapel. This he substantially performed, by laying two large flags ten or twelve feet long, over the rivulet, parallel to each other, and in the middle of the stream, with stone supporters, which still remain uninjured by time.
Old Customs and Livelihoods
In former times, the inhabitants of this parish cultivated only such fields as were of easy tillage, consequently they had but little meal. He would be considered a wealthy tenant, who at Lammas, or the 2d of August, would have a firlot of meal in his house. They chiefly lived on milk from their flocks, variously prepared, and on fish, which they caught in abundance on their shores. In years of scarcity, they were obliged to bleed their cattle, on which they subsisted, when boiled with a little meal, not unmemorably. Even in the recollection of Archibald M’Callum, lately miller at Inverlussay, who is about 80 years of age, the afternoon’s repast of many respectable tenants, consisted of boiled kail, beat with butter, thus living in primitive simplicity. In years of dearth, poor persons were obliged to pull the weed called yellow mustard, which grows in corn fields in summer, which they boiled and ate.
At the period of which I am speaking, namely about the year 1745, potatoes were so scarce, that they were almost consumed before Martinmas, with the exception of a few reserved for seed, and for the festivities of the new year. In 1742, even in Ayrshire, there were no potatoes planted, except perhaps a very few in a garden, or in a corner of a field. See Statistical Account of Kilwinning. It is said that formerly the population of Argyleshire was not so great as at present. One reason was, the scarcity of food, which kept the young men from marrying so early as they do now. The males were then forty, and the females thirty years of age, before they married, consequently their offspring were only from three or four to a family. People in those days lived an easy indolent life; fishing and fowling constituted their chief employment. They had a method of extracting ale from the blooms of heather, which they made into a wholesome and nourishing drink; the way of doing which has unfortunately been lost.
The gentlemen, in the times of which I am speaking, regularly attended church, with their families and servants. The proprietors were elders, and assisted the clergyman in preserving order and regularity in the parish.
About a mile north of Inverlussay, is Barrnangod, or “the eminence of withies,” almost embosomed in woods. In early times, tenants had not, as at present, hempen ropes for the purpose of husbandry. They were obliged to use pliant twigs of willow, birch, or hazel, which they twisted, and used instead of ropes, in their agricultural pursuits; hence the origin of the name of this farm, from the number of withies it produced. Various farms in the parish are named from the objects for which they were originally conspicuous; but of these anon.
At Caeltair na craoibh, or “the gate of the tree,” on this farm, stands an aged thorn, which for centuries stood single and alone, on the face of a bare mountain, exposed to the fury of every blast. Having been long assailed by the south-west winds, its top by the strength of the breeze has been turned north-east, thus indicating the prevalence of the western gales. Though its trunk is entirely covered with whitish moss, yet from the various shoots with which its sides are bristled, it may for years to come still brave the pitiless storm. Perhaps in its day, it may have sheltered lovers, who breathed the tender tale beneath this milk-white thorn, when with its vernal blossoms it scented the evening gale.
I stated above, that most, if not all, the names of farms in this parish, are descriptive of some attribute relative to their situation; such as, Arinumfadmore, “the shieling of long peats;” Arinanfudbeg, “the shieling of short peats;” Carasaig, “the rocky bay;” Ardnochdaig, “the bare eminence;” Downie, “the dark or shadowy place;” Barbea, “the birchy eminence;” Barrumsealg, “the hunting eminence.” These are names of farms on the west side of the parish:—Draiglineach, “thorny;” Achanamara, “the sea field;” Achanuncaorach, “the sheep field;” Barantuasgain, “the waving eminence;” Barbarach, “the eminence of oaks;” Blàrintisibirt, “the field of springs;” and Acharonieh, “fernfield;” names of places on the east side of the parish. These names are all descriptive of the localities, natural productions, or general appearance of the farms respectively.
The Gaelic is universally spoken in the parish. Though the inhabitants speak English to strangers from the Low Country, they prefer their native language when conversing with each other, which they speak with much fluency and neatness. They are not by any means devoid of suitable vocabulary to describe rural objects; for which the Gaelic is admirably adapted. It is almost unnecessary to say any thing of this language to those who understand it. They know its energy and power; the ease with which it is compounded; the boldness of its figures; its majesty in addressing the Deity; and its tenderness in expressing the finest feelings of the human heart.
The Gaelic, being an original language, does not necessarily want some words introduced into modern languages. But this is not a fault of the language, but the unavoidable lot of every language spoken in the same state of society. In rude ages, the wants of men are few, and their ideas limited; their language corresponds with their situation. They have no use for words to express, either circumstances which do not occur, or ideas which they have not acquired. Their language is abundantly copious for themselves. In the progress and more refined stages of society, when arts and sciences, and commerce and luxury are introduced, a nation must have new words to express these; and they generally borrow the words and phrases from the people who are their instructors in the innovations introduced.—But to our narrative.
The Serpent’s Stone
Leaving these retreats of benevolence and friendship, the road leads from Inverlussay to Kilmichael Glassry. This tract is finely diversified with woods, rocks, fields, and sheets of water, which, viewed from the summit of the hill, exhibit an assemblage of contrarieties so singularly picturesque, that fancy can hardly paint a landscape more exquisitely delightful. While mentioning the scenery of this tract, it is proper to state, that on the summit of Douna, there lies on the road side, a large stone fifteen feet long, now broken near the middle, called clach na bethir, or “the serpent’s stone.” The common tradition respecting it is, that it preserved the life of a shepherd, who in those early times, when the country was almost entirely covered with wood, fled from the pursuit of a venomous serpent, called in the vernacular language, Beithir, a word of the same signification with the Greek Beiros. In the infancy of society, this country was similar to what some parts of America and Canada are now, almost a forest of trees; consequently such vile reptiles as I have mentioned, undisturbed in the woods, grew to a size of which we have now no conception. According to tradition, one of those huge serpents having chosen the roof of the laird of Dunardary’s house, who then lived at the foot of a hill of that name, to deposit her young, the reptile was there noticed by the house cock, that watchful guardian of early times, encircled on the house top, and by his constant crowing, particularly in the evening, when the family were about to retire to rest, thus wished to warn them of their impending danger. The inmates of the house paid little or no attention to the salutary and repeated warnings of the faithful cock, until one evening that a way-worn traveller requested and obtained permission to pass the night in the hospitable dwelling. When the family were all assembled round their evening meal, the watchful cock as usual gave the alarm, by crowing louder and more incessantly than usual, when the landlord proposed to kill him, for his noisy trouble; upon which the poor traveller interposed, remarking, that beyond question, something portentous threatened them; when looking narrowly about, they perceived the glaring eyes and head of the serpent, ready to dart down the chimney vent, on themselves and their frugal meal. Being thus alarmed, every thing valuable was instantly removed, and fire put to the house, when the venomous young reptiles were devoured by the fiery element. But the old deadly monster seeing the destruction of its vermin, pursued the shepherd, who was most active in the work of destruction, for at least three miles, to the summit of the steep hill; where, on seeing that the monster was getting near him, he threw his plaid on the stone already mentioned, and fled with all his might. The serpent thus deceived by the plaid, wreaked its vengeance upon it, and thus the shepherd had time to escape. It is said, that by the furious lashing of the monster’s tail, the stone was loosened from its hold, and fell, where it was broken near the middle; and in this situation it still lies to commemorate this event to posterity. Since then, serpents of such uncommon magnitude have disappeared in North Knapdale. What serves to corroborate the truth of this tale is, that the adjoining western lake, is called to this day Loch na Beithir, or “the serpent’s lake.”
To the east of this is Lochan Fada, or “the long lake,” upwards of a mile long, but narrow, where trouts are likewise caught by anglers, fully as large as those taken in Lochcoilebar.
Leaving the site which gave occasion to this terrifying description, the traveller descends the hill towards the Crinan Canal, where at Dunardiery, the deep glen formed by the rivulet which flows from Lochan Fada, attracts his attention. This deep chasm, formed in the course of ages by the rapid stream, is near a quarter of a mile in length, and in some places more than a hundred feet in depth; its sides are covered with ash, birch, and hazel, the whole forming an agreeable scene, the contemplation of which brings the traveller to the Crinan Canal; on the north side of which is Carnban, the friendly dwelling of Doctor M’Callum. Here he may have it in his power to taste of mountain dew in its purity; for it is here refined by being kept for years in the house, some of which is mixed with juniper berries, some with various flowers, and such other medicinal ingredients as are conducive to health. As the Doctor is a facetious man, and full of diverting anecdote, the traveller will be pleasantly amused with his jocose and fanciful descriptions of men and manners.
In the hill, about a quarter of a mile above the Doctor’s house, on a rock whose surface is level with the plain, there are cut groupes of concentric circles, three in a line, and fifteen in number. These circles are similar to those used in astronomical plates, for elucidating the revolution of the planets round the sun. Of these circles, there are five in each of the concentric ones, probably to correspond with the number of the planets then known. The Doctor is of opinion, that this is one of those methods which were in use previous to the introduction of letters into this country, for commemorating extraordinary events; and in the case in question, he thinks these circles represent the right of the proprietor to the estate where the rock lies, on which they are engraved; and that they signify, that his descendants were to enjoy it as long as the celestial luminaries which the circles represent should perform their unerring revolutions round the sun. This opinion is not at all improbable, for of old, rights to inheritances were in many instances conveyed by hieroglyphic symbols, similar to those now described. I am informed, on unquestionable authority, that the right of Macmillan to the estate of Knap, in South Knapdale, was cut in rude characters in the Celtic language, on a rock in the shore at the point of Knap, which are now obliterated by the action of the waves on its surface.
Not far distant from the Doctor’s house, on the south side of the canal, there is a mineral spring, whose waters many persons in the neighbourhood have drank, and were much benefited by their salubrity. The first of these objects, namely, the sculptured rock, is worthy of the attention of the scientific antiquarian, and the latter of every medical gentleman.
The People of North Knapdale
The inhabitants of the parish are active and inquisitive, fond of information, and desirous of improvement. They are industrious, friendly to each other, courteous to strangers, and respectful to their superiors. They are correct in their morals, exemplary in their conduct, and regular attendants on religious instruction. In the character, as well as the condition of the people, the progress of society is very visible. By a better education than their ancestors enjoyed, their information is considerably greater. That spirit of credulity, and belief in witches, fairies, and other ideal beings, which formerly prevailed, is now gradually dying away. From the attention and care with which the rising generation are instructed in the principles of the Christian religion, and in the elements of literary and useful knowledge, by the various established instructors, the youth are thus early prepared to become valuable members of society, and useful to their country.
The remark of Dr. Johnson, in his “Journey to the Western Isles,” namely, “that bloom and softness are not to be expected among the lower classes,” does not apply here, for many of our young maidens are fair and beautiful. Whether this proceeds agreeably to the opinion of Dr. Smith in his “Wealth of Nations,” from the use of that valuable root the potatoe, I cannot say, but the fact is certain, that our “bonny lasses” exhibit the appearance both of bloom and of softness.
A custom peculiar to this district, may in conclusion be mentioned, that till within these fifty years, the young men of this parish, married only such women as belonged to it; thus circumscribing their affection within limited bounds, agreeably to the old saying, “Ma bhitheas aon chrón san eolach, bithidh tri san ain eolach.” i.e. “If there be one fault in the known, there will be three in the unknown.” This practice united the parishioners in reciprocal acts of kindness, the good effects of which are still apparent in their attachment to each other.
In their conversation, they sometimes make use of a few exclamations introduced into the language in Popish times; which, as they are not aware of their meaning, I will correct. The exclamations which they use, are Air Muire, or “on the Virgin Mary,” and Air an Leabhra, or “on the book,” i.e. “the bible.” The mention of these expletives is sufficient to prevent their use.
This parish being mostly hilly, is not so well adapted for tillage as for pasturage. They do not therefore raise corn enough for their support. They, however, grow great quantities of potatoes, and from their sale they are enabled to purchase as much meal as they require.
Mr. Malcolm of Poltalloch, and Mr. Campbell of Ross, are the principal proprietors. The minor heritors are, Colonel Elphinston, of Carasaig; Messrs. Rankin, of Ardnacaig; Macneil, of Oakfield; Macneil, of Galchoille; and Campbell, of Ormaig. The proprietors are all non-resident, which is a great loss to the poor, who are solely dependent on the weekly Sabbath collections made for their behoof, at the parish churches.
Thus have I endeavoured to delineate a landscape, singularly diversified with hill and dale, lakes and streamlets, waving woods and shadowy groves; scenes which, when contemplated, will, from their variety and beauty, both please and gratify every traveller of taste.
FINIS.
Cuell & Bell, Printers.